Second week in Baddeck 2013

the week of the walkway

 always time for a swim at the beach

 two natives we met on the beach

 and their mascot, Monty Montana

 Killick from the beach

 A sail on Dragonfly

 Killick from the bay


the 4 Ws on the way to Dancing River Sprite
wonder why J has his thumb in the mug?

 nice view now that B & J cleared all the bushes, trees, and angelica

 Dancing River Sprite pig

 The book featured at this month's themed dinner was Ru by Kim Thuy


View clearing on our last morning

 Cute guy working on the gutters

chairs ready for a relaxing day.........

First week in Baddeck 2013

Baddeck Wed Aug 14 to Wed Aug 21, 2013

Beinn Bhreagh  means beautiful mountain in Gaelic. This peninsula of land offers beauty in every direction you look – with trails through wilderness, shoreline along the Bras D’Or lake, and magnificent views, plus people to share it with –both family and friends.

For the first three days we stay at Burns Cottage because our house, Killick, is rented to Jim’s cousins.  Burns is small modified farm house, Jim’s grandfather’s house, now to be used by his descendants. Sara and her friend Andy are staying here for the summer and welcome us. It’s wonderful to stay with them.

Burns Cottage is special to me because it is where I stayed for the summer of 1980- with Jim and our little 3 month old daughter, Keara. It brings back so many happy memories of being a young couple sharing the family summer home of Beinn Bhreagh with our little family.  This is the perch from where I began to learn the joys and complexities of sharing a family property for seven generations.  We stayed here for the summers before Jim’s mom, Teeny, was able make Killick  ready for us in 1984.

I remember my first trip to Beinn Bhreagh in 1977 in July just after I married Jim.  Now it seems incredible that I knew Jim for three years prior to our wedding and he did not bring me here until after our marriage! I can still feel the magic of discovery that I felt those few days I explored Beinn Breagh as a young bride.

We stayed at The Point. The big house was full of people. Every bedroom was taken. We had to stay in AGB’s big wooden bed on the porch facing the flower gardens! We ate every meal at the huge table in the dining room.  In awe, I felt like I was stepping into an era gone by – with maids waiting on me and cooks cooking, gardeners gardening – even chauffeurs driving. I did not know this side of Jim’s family!

I am happy to say that life on Beinn Bhreagh is quite different now – much simpler!

Jim and I are happy to share our beautiful red roofed summer home with our friends, Ethan and Trudy. We take a walk down the Golden Wedding Road to the tarns.  

We hike up the mountain to see the magnificent view from Mabel and Alexander Graham Bells’ gravesite.  

We visit many family members. We enjoy checking out the various houses – some new, some remodeled old ones.  It is interesting to see how each family creates their space on BB.

By Saturday we can move into Killick. Ethan and Trudy can appreciate all the work we’ve done in the recent years; new roof, new windows, new configuration of rooms upstairs and can see all the projects that remain as we make our ‘anchor’  more user friendly for our family. After Teeny’s tragic death in 1988, Jim and his brother, Bob, own the house. For 25 years now Bob and Anne, Jim and I have shared this great summer house. All our grown-up kids, and now their spouses and fiancés also enjoy the wonders of  Beinn Bhreagh.

One of our favorite things to do at Killick is relax on the big wrap around deck. Trudy and Ethan love that, too. Time slips by as we sip an extra morning coffee, an afternoon cup of tea,  or an evening glass of wine looking out over the waters of Baddeck Bay. One afternoon we snapped one self-timer photo as we hung out on the deck and then another one after our late afternoon swim down at Killick’s beach.

We also love hang out in Killick's big living room by the fireplace. Our dear friends Barb and Clarke join us for fun conversation and a game of cards.

 See kittycat asleep on the couch?

I did not bring my camera to the crab fest that Sara and Andy had back at Burns Cottage, so I do not have any photos to share. Imagine all the people who are staying on BB – aunts, uncles, first cousins, second cousins, and first cousins once removed,  all sitting at tables on the lawn outside, cracking and relishing long legged crab as the sun sets and the Ameoba sails by and eagles swoop and then the bugs start to bite as we munch carrot cake from the High Wheeler!  It was a fun evening.

                 (sunset from Burns Cottage on a previous evening - same sun/same place)

It is sad to bring Ethan and Trudy to the airport shuttle on Monday morning, but we meet Barb and Clarke dropping Jason! There is always something fun ready to happen around here.

Jim spends time doing yard work. Getting rid of the invasive plant Angelica is the big challenge this year. Jim buys a new short handled chopper to get the task done!

I enjoy making applesauce and crab apple jam picking fruit from the trees here.

One evening we are invited to a picnic to Crow Point with Jim's Uncle Gil & family aboard 'Dragonfly'. Sun and rain give us an interesting excursion.

Being on board 'Dragonfly' reminds me of the fun we had helping Gil bring his "new" boat from Gloucester, MA to Baddeck, NS. When people ask us; 'Have you ever sailed here from home?' We can say; yes! Our sons Xan and Fraser were part of the crew. Thinking of this makes me miss my boys and their fiancés who were here at Killick last summer. I like Killick full of happy family! <3

Last night we have a spontaneous dinner at Killick with David, Clea, and Alice –

Fried fish, curry lentils, rice, chard with fava beans and a peach-blueberry tart for dessert! Reminiscing about Uncle Sandy and Aunt Elva is always a fun time.

Today is Wednesday August 21, 2013. This is/was my dad’s birthday. He died just two years ago? Far away from my family, I am surrounded by the memories and lives of Jim’s ancestors. Being at a place where I know so many wonderful people have come and are gone now brings solace to me.  Living and dying seems okay here.  This is a poem Alexander Graham Bell liked – Jim and I like it, too:

Under the wide and starry sky,

Dig the grave and let me lie.

Glad did I live and gladly die,

And laid me down with a will.

This be the verse you grave for me:

Here he lies where he longed to be;

Home is the sailor, home from the sea,

And the hunter home from the hill.

Robert Luis Stevenson

TIME TIME TIME-what has become of you

TIME TIME TIME-what has become of you

Sailing for ten days aboard a 60 foot ketch with four other people is an interesting experience not matter where you cruise. Just the daily interaction of 5 people being together in close quarters poses challenges.

I notice I kept my watch on for the first two days, but did not bother to put it on my wrist after that. My time is ordered by the captain’s schedule of meals, anchoring, and taking up the anchor. He is in control of all the food, the comings and goings of the whaler, and of course, his boat. This is all his and he is sharing it with us, his crew. I am free within the time frame of what he wants to do. This is fine for a few days. Then, a person like me, feels trapped. I want my freedom. I want to be able to come and go as I want. I want time to myself.

I lose track of what day it is and what time it is. My usual reference points of mealtime, work schedule, phone calls, and such have disappeared. I wake up early because I went to sleep early. I eat when I am given food. I steer when it is my turn and help with the sails as needed – but on this trip we seem to be motoring into the wind more that any of us like.

I realize there was a change in plans early on because of weather. I know I fell into the trap of hoping to sail somewhere specific – the Magdeline Islands.  The weather on the two week cruise before we started had been tough. I think the skipper’s experience with that weather is affecting what we do this trip. Caution around storms is something I totally respect! Getting across the Cabot Strait prior to that gale last Saturday was a good idea. Getting to Halifax today prior to what is coming tomorrow is also a good idea. Our schedule is affected by the weather for sure.

I like dodging storms not enduring their wrath while under sail. Even a long day of motor-sailing like today seems transcended beyond time. We move along the coast of Nova Scotia in and out of fog.

Sandy spends a lot of time down below at his computer following the little green boat on the chart. That is us. This tracks our path along the shore helping us navigate carefully around rocks and buoys.

I feel the wetness in the air. It might rain soon. Trudy hands the helm over to Ethan. Jim puts his book down below and places it on the shelf. I ask him if he finished it. He says; “No, but the raindrops are getting it wet.”

We have about two hours until we dock, but what is time on a boat? We go. We just go where we have to go. Onboard, we do what we have to do. That is the simple way of time management while crewing on a 60 foot ketch.

“What is our ETA on that buoy?” Ethan yells down to Sandy.

“5:47”, Sandy yells back.

Ethan says; “It’s raining now, I just hope the strong winds hold for a while.”

This is the time for Windigo to head in to harbor for a safe night at the dock. Tomorrow’s weather prediction is such that tied up to a dock is the best place for us. This might give us time to explore Halifax (or head home to Baddeck early). I like having time to explore new places and meet new people. Though I sacrifice my own time- my control of my own time, I gain so much in sharing time as part of the crew of Windigo. The most valuable thing I gain might be realizing the value of my own time.

Journal of the Journey - part two D'Escousse to Halifax

A Sunny Saturday in Isle Madame

D’Escousse is a small town the western side of Isle Madame. The main attraction in the town is the Lennox Passage Yacht Club – LPYC. We appreciate the WI FI and showers at the yacht club. At the Shamrock convenience store we learn that the Acadian Festival in Petit de Gras on the other side of the island is going on today. When we ask about taxis at Claire’s Café near the LPYC, she laughs, says there is no taxi service, but she will lend us her car. She looks outside the door and remembers she already lent it to someone! She encourages us to hitch-hike. It’s about 5 miles. We try our luck. The first driver in the first car to pass shrugs his shoulders because he already has 3 people. The second car stops!

A petite lady peeking over her wire rim sunglasses leans over as I open the front door.  Magic is about to begin.

“We want to go to the festival in Petit des Gras. Are you going that way?” I ask.

“Oh sure, I can take you.” She says as she opens her door with arms full of stuff to put in the trunk.  Clearing more from the back seat floor, she invites us into her car.

We introduce ourselves.

“I’m Denise”, she says. “I’m a sailor too, well I sailed a lot with my ex-husband. We kept our boat at St Peter’s. It was fun.”

We tell her we are sailing aboard Windigo and that our skipper stayed back with the boat.

“Oh, need a little time away from him? Or does he need a little time away from you?” We just laugh as we see Denise understands living in close quarters. 

She is driving kind of fast. Trudy fastens her seatbelt in the backseat. Ethan and I just hang in there. Jim is in the front. It’s a long winding road through undeveloped countryside. Denise is chatting away telling us she is going this way anyway to the Co-Op and to pick up her carpenter because her roof leaked with all the rain from last night. She warns us not to get stuck in Petit des Gras. She says we might have to buy a car to get out of there and in the same sentence she tells us she will take us back to the boat. For some reason she decides pretty quickly to be our personal taxi service while we are on Isle Madame!

Ethan or Trudy – not sure which one – asks Denise if she ever comes to Florida.

“Yes, I like St. Petersburg.” she responds not realizing Ethan and Trudy live in St. Petersburg! Our connection to this woman is amazing.

I tell her I remember coming to Isle Madame about 20 years ago to a little coffee shop with croissants. She does not know of it, but takes us to a little bakery where we buy some cookies. She says she will keep driving us to find the festival. Some of the waterfront activities like the blessing of the fleet and the rowing races have been cancelled because of the storm. We keep driving, passing the ballpark where there is a festival baseball game. Beyond that, is the town hall with “the festival” in full swing. We hear music. Inside we see long tables with Acadian flags, food, balloons, games, a lot of people celebrating. 

It’s fun to see, but not really what we were looking for – not sure what we were expecting, Denise gets us back in her car. She tells us she will drive us to Land’s End. That is the further mot point out on Little Anse. “I will take you to L A”, Denise jokes.

We wind around roads that meander through the landscape around rocks and inlets. We pass old fishing shacks and brightly painted houses. Along the side of a hot turquoise house stand three mummers. I remember seeing the scarecrow type manikins in the yards during the festival time. Up the hill and around the corner, she stops the car. We get out to view the expanse of deep blue ocean coming in to the dark brown craggy shoreline. Wind blows strong and we are glad Windigo is anchored on the other side of this island.

Denise drives us back chatting all the time.  She plays the piano, and the fiddle.  She is a designer. She consults with museums and creates displays for exhibits. She also teaches art and design at a college in Halifax. We stop at the Coop. She does her shopping while we do ours. I have permission from the skipper to buy more vegetables so I can prepare my own meals on board. This vegetarian is happy now!

I sit in the front seat on the way back. I learn that Denise is like me. She just had her birthday and is born in my year! We are “Dragons” and “Leos” and we love that!

She drives us right to her house which is just a few doors up from the yacht club. Her house is a modified 1950s with a lighthouse type tower in the middle. We oo and ah at the outside and then again on the inside.  Yes, she is definitely a designer. It shows in her interior decorating style. Before we know it she is playing us a piece on the piano! On her bookshelves are many books we’ve read including Wind Whales, and Whiskey. She tells us Silver Donald Cameron lives in the yellow house at the head of the LPYC road. The house that I photographed and Jim painted last evening! She says we can knock on his door and buys his books from him! Denise takes us on a tour all through the house and up to the roof top deck. What a different view we have of how people live in D’Escousse!  

We exchange addresses and say good byes – hoping to see this lady again some day to return the favor of the magic she brought to our afternoon on Isle Madame.

At the LPYC, Sandy is reading. I hang at the club checking e-mails while Jim, Ethan, and Trudy go meet Silver Donald Cameron and buy his books.

Back at the boat, Trudy and I prepare a fresh broccoli salad with cranberries, green pepper, onion, black beans. We make a dressing of; mayonnaise, Balsamic Vinaigrette, maple syrup, lemon juice, salt and pepper. This is delicious.

What a gorgeous sunset!  The orange striped sky delights us as we decide to play the card game; Harry. The girls each win a game.

What a fine day to be marooned on Isle Madame!

Our captain tells us to plan for an early departure tomorrow.

D’Escousse to Yankee Cove - SUNDAY

In our aft cabin, Jim wakes up at 5 am. He gets the kettle boiling. I decide to get going. We are up and dressed before the others. The caboose is ready!

The pink sky of pre-dawn enchants us as we look off to the east, the direction we are headed today. As the sun rises bursting her golden glow at us we are chugging out of D’Escousse and across Chebucto Bay. This crossing is very windy and very wet, though we have clear sky with no clouds. We head up Andrew’s Channel and across to Big Dover Run leading to Little Dover Run. I love this kind of meandering through interesting narrow passages. We spot eagles, seals, bright colored lobster traps on docks, and many summer cottages with screened porches. 

At Port Howe, we anchor for lunch. Port Howe is a beautiful round harbor. I fall in love with the most adorable little island right in the middle. Something draws me to this rock edged small green wonder. I feel that it is mine. This photo is taken from the inner harbor behind the island.

Jim, Trudy, and I get in the whaler with the depth sounder to chart the depths of the inner harbor for Sandy. Sandy works hard at updating the Cruising Club Guide. On the way back to the boat, we admire the little island. I know I am in love with this beauty as I saw it while we were anchoring. What I do not know until this moment is that Trudy feels the same way I do about this island. Trudy and I want to climb the island and claim it for our own. Jim carefully maneuvers the whaler in and drops us off on the large flat rock. We scramble to the summit of this green dollop of land. “Yeah, this is our island!” we exclaim for the world to hear. Trudy and Lea have an island! It’s amazing how much fun it is to claim an island and excavate the entire place so quickly. We are thrilled as we pose for photographs. As Jim retrieves us he names our island,  “Trulea Island”.

Onboard Windigo, we salute Trulea Island once more as we go back out and around to Whitehead. Carefully navigating the green and red buoys we follow the maze to Yankee Harbor. The afternoon is sunny and windy, we anchor alongside the ‘mussel farm’.

Time for reading and siesta is nice. One thing I love about the aft cabin is that I have plenty of drawers for keeping stuff. One drawer is designated for “porgy bait”. That includes gum, chocolate, cookies/crackers, and seltzer water. I am always sharing these treats, but it is important for me to have easy access to snacks. I also keep arrowroot cookies, ginger cookies, and oatmeal cookies above the locker near the cabin door for anyone to grab at anytime. This was I do not have to ask the skipper if I get munchies. This afternoon I just wish I had something salty. I already shared the dried seaweed.

Jim is painting in the cockpit. He and Sandy are discussing an immature eagle who is flying around us. It is high tide and very windy. After our little rest, Trudy, Ethan, Jim and I go ashore. They harvest mussels while I explore the seaweed, tide pools, and rocks. It’s a good time for me to photograph note cards and plan for paintings!

What a dinner we have; mussels in the cockpit for them – a thyme, mustard, wine sauce over mushrooms, zuchinni, with steamed asparagus spears for me, plus crab cakes, potato and green beans with Pan Forte for dessert.

Jim helped Sandy fix the bow hose sprayer. No cards this evening. Tonight is clear with all the stars twinkling. It’s the meteor shower time. I wake often throughout the night to see them, but none appear for me.

Yankee Cove to Liscomb  - MONDAY

It’s another gorgeous clear blue sky day! We sail from Yankee Cove to Liscomb.

Well we motor sail or motor into the wind all day long. I took a Sturgeron sea sickness pill that is more like a sleeping pill and slept most of the day.

Around 3 pm we sail up the long curving river to Liscomb to see Bluewater anchored. This Nordhaven 47 belongs to CCA members Milt and Judy Baker who we dined with aboard Windigo our first night of this cruise in Port Aux Basques all those days ago. We hope to tie up to the dock, but another motor yacht is already there, so back out in the river we go to anchor.

Liscomb is a resort where people come to stay in cabins along the river. There is also an indoor swimming pool ( maybe b/c it is often foggy here? ) and hiking trails. We set out for an hour hike along the river. It’s great to stretch our legs having been boat-bound for a few days. The river is powerful with falls and big open stretches of rock slabs.

We are invited aboard Blue water for happy hour and “heavy hors d’oerves”. Ah, my craving for something salty is answered; guacamole with corn chips! Judy and Milt offer an array of yummy food! They have an incredible galley on this motor yacht! The whole yacht is decked out incredible – it’s like a floating luxury condo! And they have “Katie” such a cute 8 year old doggie – who looks like a black pig! At this party we meet Dan and Marsha with their dog, Lola, plus the 4 friends of Ethan & Trudy from St. Petersburg who are anchored on their motor yacht further out the harbor; Atlee & Christina, JP & Dianne. What a fun party!

Back on Windigo we play a game of Oh Hell – to 5 and back. The score keeper ( Jim ) wins a hard fought knocking game again.

And, again, we hope to see the shooting stars with a clear night sky.

TUESDAY

Ah, we wake to FOG at 6 am. Who wants fog?  We motor out Liscomb River is a dense fog while Trudy cooks omlettes for breakfast. The boat smells great with sautéing onions and peppers.  Hoping the fog lifts, we head east for Halifax. While Trudy is at the helm, she says she thinks she sees a rainbow, but it turns out to be a fog bow! The fog finally clears or is it that we sail out of it? We can see the fog bank hanging near shore. Ethan jokes that he doesn’t want to do business at that bank! Everyone takes a turn at the helm usually an hour at a time. I take it around 11:30 and whew, the wind comes up! We can motor-sail!

We are making our way down to Halifax Yacht Club, hoping to tie up to the dock there to ride out tomorrow’s storm.

Jim and Ethan man the boat for the last two hours of pouring rain until we reach the Royal Nova Scotia Club in Halifax.

WEDNESDAY

It’s a foggy morning in Halifax, but we are here!

With bad weather predicted for today and big winds for tomorrow, we decide to find a rental car and head up to Baddeck. One problem there are not rental cars to be found. The shuttle from the airport is full. Trudy keeps scanning the internet trying to find a car.

The harbormaster, Wayne, asks me if I want a coffee. He invites me into the inner kitchen beyond the workshop. As I sip a wonderful cup, I tell him about our cruise and that I want to get back to Baddeck but we can’t find a rental car.

“You want to rent a car? I have one for you right in my parking lot.”

I look at him incredulously. “Are you kidding? Can I hug you?”

Turns out he and the rental car company have a deal that he keeps a car ready for boaters coming in the RNYC. How serendipitous for us! In about twenty minutes, we are in a big black muscle car heading out of Halifax to Baddeck!