Thor’s Day in Stockholm
Swedish guides tell us that first they were Pagans, then
Catholics, and then Lutherans. They make it clear that they were always the
same people - just with different labels attached to them. Who were the
Vikings? The same people – the Swedes! In telling us this they remind us that
their Norse heritage is alive and well in our culture today. Several days of
the week are named for Norse Gods. Thursday is named for Thor, the God of
Thunder and Lightning!
On this Thor’s day, Jim and I enjoy a wonderful breakfast in
the dining room of our hotel, chatting with a young couple from Switzerland
with a cute 6 month old baby, Ryan.
Since we have a few hours left on our subway card, we zip
underground down to Gamla Stan. Stockholm’s historic district is a maze of
cobblestone streets with galleries, shops, and cafes. We find our way to a
beautiful orangey stucco Finnish church. As we follow the crowds behind the
church into the shady courtyard we see them all photographing something small.
The iron Boy is the tiniest public statue in Stockholm – and the smallest one
I’ve ever seen! Local legend holds that it honors the orphan boys who unloaded
the ships before the locks were built. The crowds have left and we are alone
with this little one – so peaceful. Look carefully. Can you see him on that little bench?
Out a wooden gate with ancient iron hinges and latch, we
wander to Stortoget, Stockholm’s oldest square. We marvel at the old Stock
Exchange building now the noble NOBEL Museum. We pause here with other peaceful
tourists enjoying the beautiful day.
We enter back into the tangle of pathways
to find Storkyrkan, the cathedral. Entering the yellow brick church past
statues of Caution and Hope, we are stunned by the black ebony & sterling
silver altar.
The interior is cobbled over with centuries old tombstones giving
a sacred yet eerie feeling as we can hardly read names. A display of ‘the
history of wedding dresses’, a large statue of Saint George slaying a dragon,
and the ornate royal boxes where the Swedish nobility sit when attending church
really give this church an ecumenical feel. I notice a candle burning with a
pad of paper, pen, and an invitation to leave a prayer intention which I do.
Just as I finish writing my deepest desire, the pastor arrives calling everyone
in the church to prayer. Her clear voice asks us to thank God, pray for peace,
and other stuff – I honestly cannot remember what her prayer was. Jim smiles
and says; “That was unexpected”. When have you been a tourist in a church and
randomly been asked to join in prayer? We appreciate this religious gesture as
we are ready for anything today. Jim directs me to the rear of the church where
he wants me to see an unusual painting.
The strange sun and sky above the 1535 Gamla Stan (which is all that
Stockholm was back then) predict big change for Sweden – very interesting
painting bringing the astrologic into the religious.
As we start up Prastgatan Lane which is reminiscent of the
most beautiful lane in Japan, we hear a marching band. That means it is time
for the changing of the guard. The Royal Palace is in Gamla Stan. The music
leads us to see the shiny helmets and bright blue uniforms do their ceremonial
thing. Royalty is calling. We must oblige.
Okay, now we enjoy a quiet wander down “Prient’s
Lane”/Prastgatan. We fall into Jarntoget, a Medieval customs square. Here it is
time for Fika Fare – coffee with a snack. Ah, we find a table under an awning.
Coffee could not be finer. An accordion player entertains as we take a little
break and relax with a lot of happy
people all around us. From our seat we can peek down lanes to the harbor
and see huge cruise ships at the dock. One gets ready to leave the harbor as we
watch from afar. This is Stockholm.
At first we think we want to hike along Sodermalm but the
construction work deterred us. We walked back through Gamla Stan and out to
Skeppsholmen. We cruise through the Asian Museum and Museum of Modern Art
quickly because we want to have time to hike around this little island in the
middle of the harbor.
Seagulls beg for our picnic foods attracting mother/father
geese and their goslings.
We have fun watching these birds teaching their young how to
jump from the high wall into the water – watch out little goslings! Whew!
On the way back we saunter around to pass the tall ship, AF
Chapman which is moored along the path. The ship beckons us on board. Before we
know it we are sitting on the stern deck enjoying a cold beverage with a
panoramic view of this city we are getting to know. Chatting with other people
– some tourists – some native, we really enjoy this relaxing time. As we go to
leave, Jim wants to check out the bow. Oh, well, we try out the cotton-wooden
lounge chairs and before you know it, we are relaxing even better on the bow.
We strike up a nice conversation with the people sitting beside us; Audul and
Anna Marie from Norway. They are Special Ed teachers, a little bit like us. We
feel like we are watching the sun set, only at this latitude, it does not set,
well, it does eventually, but it never gets real dark.
For dinner we head back to Gamla Stan, to Den Glynelle
Freden. This restaurant has been in continuous service since 1722. Delicious!
We walk back to our hotel. As I try to sum this day up I realize I've not blogged about yarn shops, watercolor galleries, Swedish horse painting, hanging out with gnomes, and more. What a day, what a Thor's day!
We must pack and be ready for the
taxi that will take us to the early ferry. We are going from Stockholm through
that archipelago to Turku, Finland passing through another archipelago.
Let me tell you about Friday and who that day was named for tomorrow....and,
I can’t wait to see my friend! I've been dreaming about visiting her for over 40 years!
